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Stretch

How much a fabric gives under tension, which lets a garment fit close to the body, or even smaller than it, and still be comfortable.

Stretch is how much a fabric gives when pulled, and comes back. Swim fabrics, jersey and knits with elastane stretch; rigid denim and woven shirting barely do. It changes how much room a garment needs: a stretch garment can be smaller than the body and still fit, which is what holds a swimsuit or a pair of leggings in place. That is called negative ease.

On a size chart

Stretch pieces are cut close on purpose, and their fit notes say so. From Ruban Size's templates:

TemplateFit scaleFit note
Leggings and activewearRuns slightly smallCompression fit: if you prefer less support, take one size up.
SwimwearRuns slightly smallSwim fabrics are designed to fit close: between two sizes, take the larger one.
Women's jeansRuns slightly smallStretch-free denim: if you are between two sizes, take the larger one.

The last row is the other side of it: without stretch, the larger size is the safe one.

In Ruban Size

Each chart's Fit and Find my size tab has a Stretch fabric setting: "A stretch size takes a little more before it is tight." Swimwear, activewear and underwear count as stretch by default, and so do jersey tops (T-shirts, polos, sweatshirts) unless you say otherwise.

On a garment chart, Find my size gives swimwear, activewear and underwear an ease of -2, 0 or 2 cm (snug, regular, loose), then takes a share of the body measurement off: 10% for swimwear, 8% for activewear, 6% for underwear. Jersey tops keep the usual top ease, minus 5%: for a 96 cm chest, a regular T-shirt comes to 96 + 11.6 - 4.8 = 102.8 cm around. On a body chart, a stretch size can take a quarter of a size step past its range before it counts as tight. How much ease clothes need has the full table.

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